sunday morning, departure münster 8:40
half past seven (still under the shower) thinking to myself: oh well, should be
fine to leave around 8 o'clock... suddenly I realize: you have to go to the
AIRPORT, not to the train-station......
grapping my one big bag of luggage and hopping into the car is one single move -
chasing all the way to Greven airport takes 20 minutes - approaching the first
long-time parking - full! passing by the next one: full, too! Jeeeh, what is
this? rushing into the parking-garage - first deck: full.
second deck: full.
pants full, too.
Finally I find a spot up on the furth deck and can't believe that our beautiful
little airport is SO busy - thought we lived on the countryside??? the lady at
the check-in counter doesn't really buy my story of being late having thought I
needed to go to the train-station in the first place - can't help it. far too
late to check in luggage, so I am allowed to take my stuff personally right on
to the maneuvering area in front of our plane. thank Godness for countryside
airports!
the
horsetrailors of all the foreign equestrian equipes are still parked at the
maneuvering area. – anybody ever doubted Münster wasn't the heart of the
world?
arrival at Athens airport on suday afternoon, eazzzzzzzie, all those worries the
greek weren't capable of handling more than 500 engines a day were completely
unnecessary. meeting Klaus and our 3 fellow-travellers isn't a problem either.
we hop into a cab immediately taking us to the equestrian center - tuns out that
Widfall is supposed to be starting even today at 6 p.m.
first big shock at the ticket counter: big sign stating "sold out!" that is most
ridicoulous as it is obvious that the entire equestrian center is widely empty.
not a sruprise, really, why would anybody ever want to watch eventing dressage,
anyway??
mega discussion with the poeple at the ticket counter at cross-purposes - they
don't speak any english, we don't speak any greek... finally we are in and
Windfall proves to be a real highlight after all those less than average rides.
at the end of day one Darren and Windfall rank fourth, Bettina Hoy is in the
lead - which was widely expected.
and
than we are up for the "odyssee" part one: shuttle to the airport, half hour,
walking all across the airport (another 15 minutes) to catch the shuttle
to Piraeus harbour, oneandahalf hours... and than, piraeus harbour - where ARE
they, those ferryboats that according to the internet serve Aegina Island every
hour???
big eyes.
where did you get that from??
that's what the interenet says!
oh, really?
really!
hm. why would it say so?
what???
well, these boats never go every hour....
us: well, maybe because of the Olympics...?
- oh - really?
turns out:
there are two ferryboat carriers, one that goes every hour but only during
day-time, last boat left at 8:30. the other one which is the big commercial
ferry that all the ancient greeks use to carry their chickens and mopeds up onto
athens marketplace travels at 1:15 a.m 6:15 a.m. 1:15 p.m. 4:15 p.m. an takes
two hours one way....
welcome to the Athens of the present.
big fortune, the 9:30-ferry is about to take off just now. at sea we hear: this
boat is not going to land at Aegina Marina but only at Aegina Port. two
different harbours at opposite sides of the island. needless to say: our
accomondations are located at the opposite side...
ohwever, that wouldn't be problem as they say since there are always taxis and
those take twenty minuutes to cross the island.
hah!
this information is as usefull as the internet information about those hourly
ferry boat carriers... meanwhile, however, some of the domestics have realized that on
the mainland olympic games are taking place and they truly consider to maybe
launch the commercial ferry at 9:30 p.m. even on mondays... (usually the latest
of these boats leaves at 8:30 p.m. on week days). We are supposed to be calling
in tomorrow during office hours to check if a later boat is being employed.
eazzzzzzzzy, given our fluent greek language... and it wouldn't really solve the
matter entirely, either, since we would again be landing at the wrong side of
the island but the only alternative would mean to be taking the last passanger
boat at 4:30 p.m. and we will never be in time to catch that one. as we are not
really keen on having to take the commercial ferry at 1:15 in the middle of the
nicght, either...
epic voyage, that is.
we arrive at Aegina Port an, a most beautiful dreamy island town with a
pictorial old harbour - simply beautiful!
but it is 10:30 at night and our arms are getting longer and longer from
carrying around our luggage and the sense for ambience is not really pronounced.
we want a taxi!
and yes, there is a taxi stand and it is highly frequented. however: it is in
short supply of taxis. some of them are only recognizable by the time they have
already left again - since those cars are from the 1950s, partially working on
three wheels only with no cab-signs attached, continuous seatbenches inside to
seat three poeple in front and most advantegous drivers. and the latter often
simply refuse to take the trip to the other side of the island since it is "too
far" or "nix marina!" and it takes another 45 minutes until we find someone who
is willing to take the five of us even in one lot. around midnight we finally
arrive in our spartanic accomondation. fluent water, not always, but most of the
time, and often even warm. therefore the entire thing only costs 70 euros per
night... per person, that is.
doesn't matter, just sleep. since we will have to get up by 6 a.m. in order to
take the commercial ferry that indeed leaves right in front of our street and
arrives at Piraeus harbour at 8:15 a.m. passing by the Queen Mary II who is
anchoring there providing a completely new definition of the concept of size:
right next to it is a high-rise building. if you were to lay this building on
its side it wouldn't even partially cover the hull of the Queen Mary II.
than switch into the shuttle bus to the airport, passing by the five candy
coloured brand new olympic stadiums, oscitatntly empty. the greeks really seem
to not care about the olympics. at the airport switching into another shuttle to
the equestrian stadium and finally getting there by 10:30 a.m. at the airport we
bump into michael (klimke, ingrids brother) who wants to meet his sister and he
was rejected at the equestrian stadium given he had run a private car - since
private cars are completely out of bounds for any visitor, thus he had to take
the detour via the airport, too, in order to catch the official shuttle from
there. he is about as enervated as we are and we have a lot to talk to each
other!
odyssee is a greek word - i lived it...
the
second day of eventing dressage, the highlight at noon: Darren, Windfalls rider,
will walk the cross with us. if you consider it a highlight to walk a 6 km cross
in greek desert heat at noon from 12 til 3... however, i am well acclimatised,
the sun is my friend and i can stand heat a lot better than cold, no problem.
the cross is superb, wonderful thick grass ground, optically inviting
fences, a few of those I would even dare to take with my Shannon. I meet on
Ingrid and ask her if I imagine this correctly or if this cross really doesn't
seem to be too demanding. she says: no way to compare to Sidney. eazzzzzzie. Sidney was 3 minutes longer (which
is a huge difference given a 9-10 minute cross) and specially the water- and
deep-down jumps were significantly steeper. Ingrid is the last competitor to
start in the dressage today, 6:30 p.m. and of course we want to see her ride
Sleep Late. but than we will have to really rush on in order to catch our
shuttles to reach the harbour ferry in time for 9:30. in the afternoon we have
asked our friend Kerstin's father in law who is greek to call the ticket counter
of Piraeus harbour to check if they meanwhile figured out if there will be a
9:30 ferryboat. aren't we smart! (since these poeple not necessarily speak
english if you need them to...). than the big discussion to plan for tomorrow
morning:
the cross starts at 9 a.m. and this is the main event we came here for. our home
ferry disqualifies immediately since it wont get us here prior to 10:30. now the
big challenge is: how do we arrange at night (around midnight) on a an ancient
greek island were time stopped passing by about 50 years ago for a taxi to pick
us up in the morning at 6 a.m. to reach the first ship leaving the island on the
opposite side?
it takes until 3 a.m. in the morning to arrange for this.
at
the next morning the cross: lunacy, highest spirits, la ola waves, celebrating
heroes, one shiver chases the other up and down the spine, the enitre german
olympic show jumping team is here, father Ehning bums around my backpack
thinking it was his, only the dressage equipe isn't to be seen (they already sit
in the cellar sharpening their swords...). half of Muenster and Warendorf run
into me and the euphoria is alive and unlimited. even more so since our german
team didn't even get to qualify propperly in the first place but had to take the
chicken-way via the world ranking list - and now such a contingent of fans and
camp-followers! as they admit themselves: they have never experienced such
spirit and temper at any championship before! I am likely to believe it.
with each starter you know in person tears are in your eyes, every fence is
being celebrated frenetically in the deep grass in front of the huge screen and
once they gallop by directly you hear those rythmical battle cries from of
hundreds of enthusiastic fans - absolutely amazing! when Frankie Ostholt comes
by poeple freak out:" ossi ossi hoy hoy hoy!" - all accompanied by the big wave
all over the crowd. and he rides as if the devil was after him and when his
horse at one point nearly clings to one of the fences (they really got lucky,
his horse kind of stumbled in the air but got its legs resmebled quick enough)
poeple cry all at once and than you hear the collective sigh at the relief out
of all those throats.
than Windfall comes and he is purest eye-candy. he briefly struggles at the same
spot that later on Ingrid will fall off Sleep Late but Darren is lucky and stays
in the saddle. to watch this beautiful horse taking the cross with so much
expression is purest goose skin feeling at its best. when Hinni (Hinrich Romeike,
who later on in front of all the media begs is passionate appelate at the NOK to
simply provide for two gold medal rankings) later on tries to anonymously mix up
with the audience (having had a clear round in time directly after Bettina had
already been the first sensation for the german team) a sheer roar goes through
the crowd, they take him up their shoulders and pass him on through the entire
audience - tears of joy, incredible!
the
germans are completely out of control.
the americans are staggered.
the english anyway.
the french are piqued.
has anyone ever seen that before?
than Dibo comes (Andreas Dibowski), he delivers a clear round as well and
completes the sensation to being perfect. when has this EVER occured
before? - the germans coming out with FOUR clear rounds off the cross? taking
the lead in front of worldchampion France, England and the US - and Ingrid
hasn't even started yet!
than Ingrid, again last starter and the most spectacular course is well known -
downfall, climbing back into the saddle and finishing at fastest time. complete
hysterie amongst all the camp-followers. collective bluster.
incredible.
all of us had shivered after the downfall at each following fence and the
stomach puckered up: that was hara-kiri and extremely dared.
than
the absolute highlight for us:
Tim is sending his driver to take us to
the yacht. splendid! what a contrast to our life at the airport Mcdonalds the
last couple of days. finally: holiday!
what a day. Darren is there and brought his mum and brother but he is not
overwhelmingly happy - despite a clear round only ranking 12th and far out from
the medal ranks. understandable.
but still. the olympic goal has been reached. this is what the horse has been
bought and trained for over the last four years - what a horse! Tim is excited.
the spirit on board simply magnificent. everything fits: the sun, the wind and
the sea. and the most delicicous food - our backpackers life of the last couple
of days couldn't be of any stronger contrast. relax. enjoy.
it is the last night for me. maren and I have an appointment at the airport the
next morning, we want to go to the Acropolis to enjoy at least a little of
Athens at all. Tim's driver is taking us back to the harbour (purest luxury not
having to do the shuttle-hazzle) and the shock follows right away:
the last ferryboat is booked out!!
there is a waiting list, though.
the problem:
they can't read their own handwriting anymore and don't know how those names
read on that list... everybody claims to have his name on the very top of that
list of course. titanic-alike tumult at the pier. everybody knows,
capacity is highly limited and all of a sudden everybody claims to be sick,
pregnant, in need or somewhat handicapped... incredible chaos, anger, dispair.
that just doesn't work at all. so is how it must have been on the Titanic. my
stomach crambles. suddenly teh captain steps on the footbridge and raises his
hand silently. rien ne vas plus. all seats taken. i stand in front of everybody
else still wearing my party dress and look at him from down the pier into his kind
face and ask: isn't there a tiny little place left for a single person? he looks
at me from upside the bridge, makes a move with his hand and says: come in! I don't
trust my ears, and before I can think any further i find myself in the captains
pontoon bridge squeezed on the hatrack. here I am, gateful about my fortune...
at sea he looks at me one time and asks: is everything fine? I am nodding
blessedly.
and than -double fortune!- the annoying taxi-search at the island harbour: i
scream into the crowd: anybody care for the marina? three guys turn round and go:
Yoh! me: care for a share? and off i was, squeezed again into one cab with them,
irish folks, their brother is part of the irish oarsmen olympic team and these
guys are real fun. plus, i have never made it to the other side of the island so
quickly! and by the way: ANY olympic guest I meet seems to have a brother, son
or somehow else related person who is part of one of the olympic teams. that's
why they are here. the greeks themselves rather watch the games onTV.
next
morning: packing the travelbag and taking the 6:15 ferryboat to piraeus. 9:00
airport, meeting Maren, Terry and sisters and we are encouraged enough to take
the metro. so far one was only told scary stories of horror about the metro:
metro broken, trains having accidents, passangers being taken out, having to
walk dark tunnels through the catacombs etc etc. turns out: the greek are poeple
like the rest of the world - and quiet like the westfalians, too: if it is
strange and new better be aware of it and avoid it if you can...
the metro system is brandnew and thus being looked at highly sceptical. it might
take a couple of centuries until they reckon that taking the metro is a lot
faster and more convenient than having to take the bus ... the Acropolis is
wonderful - ancient history alive. if you are a friend of having to climb greek
mountains at 40°C at noon between 12 and 2 p.m. ... again: i feel "happy as a
clam" in the heat, as always there is a nice breeze blowing and the charming
company adds to a perfect day. the sisters give in to their fortune and even
suggest voluntarily to visit the museum up on Acropolis mountain:
i soon realize what the reason behind that is: the building is fully
airconditioned...
some time later we take the metro back to the airport, the others return to the
equestrian center to watch the unfortunate show jumping, the tragical course is
well known and often been discussed (Bettina Hoy crossing the starting line
twice, thus jeopardizing the team's gold medal).
I am sitting in my plane completely relaxed approaching my provincial westfalian
homeland and realize:
from Münster to Athens is just a stone's throw (unless you accidentally tend to
take the way to the train station in the first place) but from Athens to Aegina
Island and to the equestrian center from there is a journey round the world
which needs to be very thoughtfully considered.
more pictures of Athens